The return of Spring and ways in which this will often produce wet basements.

A Guelph realtor advises: one sure sign of spring in Ontario is wet basements! Follow this advice I learned on a recent workshop on basements for Guelph realtors.

Tip #1: basements were never supposed to be finished living space.

Tip #2: when you finish the basement, plan for future moisture problems.

Time was basements used to be left 'to cure' for a year or two before finishing, so cracks brought on by shifting or other moisture issues would be noticeable and repaired before drywall was installed. Today builders offer to finish it for you instantly.

As the snow melts you may get surface water running down the foundation walls. Add that moisture to already water-saturated soil being pressed into the foundation wall by hydrostatic pressure and you have a problem. Water generally follows the path of least resistance so if you happen to have cracks, holes or shifting blocks or bricks inside your foundation you could discover water, or at least dampness, inside your basement. Generally if the ground underneath the footings freezes the soil may expand and make the foundation to heave and water always finds the easiest way through. Downspouts running right into the foundation, poor grading where the soil runs down towards the foundation, foundation plantings, blocked or broken perimeter drainage systems and exterior damp-proofing which can be no longer efficient can all play a role in such problems.

Just what difference will your foundation help to make?

Rubble stone foundations were common pre WW 1 and were lowest priced, because the stone was gathered on the cleared land. Basements with stone foundations were certainly never meant to become finished liveable space. That was the spot that the coal, potatoes and preserves were saved. There is a higher risk of moisture difficulties with a rubble stone foundation and it is an on-going maintenance matter.

From about 1910 to 1935 brick was regularly used. Bricks swell whenever they get wet and this can aid in controlling leakage yet still expect dampness in the basement, simply because in time bricks may also shift and crumble. Then from about 1940 to 1970 concrete blocks were often put to use in foundations particularly when owners were doing it themselves. Whenever built correctly, with rods properly inserted and blocks filled with concrete, these kinds of foundations have withstood the test of time. However, you won't be able to tell, once it's built, whether or not it has these. Should the blocks are hollow, water may fill them and the blocks may begin shifting.

Wood foundations haven't ever been common in southern Ontario, therefore wouldn't be a consideration for Guelph property, however they are used more in western Canada. Poured concrete foundations have been employed ever since the early 1900s and are still considered by far the most reliable, regardless of frequent difficulties with cracks. However, older concrete foundations where river rock and big lumps of gravel and stone were utilized really don't hold together as well. The concrete needs to be poured fully at the same time for best adherence.

Building methods and supplies have improved over time. Clay weeping tiles which normally shifted and started to be clogged have been supplanted by continuous plastic pipe with drainage holes along with a geo-textile sock over that filters out sand and silt. A bitumous (tar) coating used to be painted onto the exterior foundation parging, although it would crack and fade away eventually. Currently a drainage layer of corrugated plastic sheeting is commonly employed to keep the soil from the foundations walls, creating an air space between the foundation wall and the backfill dirt, which conducts water right down to the weeping system. Additionally there is a peel and stick tar-like material that is not usually applied during construction but utilized as a retrofit.

Solving the challenge:

Managing water and moisture challenges within your basement is a process of elimination. You start with the obvious culprits. Check out surface water drainage. Are the gutters plugged with leaves and debris and overflowing whenever it rains? Do the downspouts extend at a minimum 10 feet away from your house, or if they go into the ground can they drain to the footing drainage system? Does the paved drive or foundation planting beds tend to slope toward the foundation? If pavement adjoins or abuts your property wall is it thoroughly sealed or has the sealant broken down? Sewer connection problems, broken sump pump and window wells that push water into the foundation are other considerations.

Often it could be as simple as a $5 fix to incorporate an extension on a downspout or it could be $20,000 to dig up the entire foundation and replace the weeping tiles. You'll find companies specializing in resolving basement moisture challenges and many guarantee their work. The MLS listing will not be likely to let you know if you can anticipate such problems. This really is one other reason to have a qualified home inspector look at the house before buying.